Keep crickets between 85 and 90 degrees; they will die rapidly at lower temps. We recommend using a radiant heater (like a ceramic bulb) if your room isn't this warm
To clean your bin: Shake the crickets off of the egg flats and remove flats from the cage, take out food and water. Using a 6" putty knife, scrape the sides and bottom toward the center. (the live crickets will jump from the pile to the corners) Wash water bottle, refill and put back (or replace water crystals), add grain.
Crickets are very sensitive to chemicals, flea products especially! They should be kept far away from even flea collars
To prevent pupation, store between 50 and 60°, if this is not possible (refrigerators are colder) then at room temperature at the coolest spot available. Often the butter tray in a refrigerator door is the correct temperature.
Order no more than a 2 week supply to ensure fresh stock
If they arrive and the sawdust feels moist, leave the top off and make sure they dry out; waxworms prefer a low humidity environment.
On arrival, shake worms out into a container (kitty litter pans or food storage bins work well)
Keeping at room temperature:
Add a 1” layer of wheat bran or mealworm bedding
Supply moisture with raw carrots, potatoes, or celery (this is essential)
Sift bedding when bedding appears ‘sandy’
Large worms kept at room temperature will pupate very soon!
Never let worms sit in direct sunlight or in temperatures 85° or higher
Storing in refrigerator (recommended)
Remove vegetation while worms are refrigerated
Don't store in the coldest areas where the milk is kept or the crisper; it can get a bit too chilly here!
Always let worms stand at room temperature for at least 30 minutes before placing into the refrigerator at 45-50 degrees.
At this temperature the worms become dormant and last for months
Worms must stay dry and have air at all times (do not place in a covered or sealed container)
When removed from refrigeration offer moisture and food, worms will be lively and hungry as they warm up
On arrival let stand at room temperature for 30 minutes, then refrigerate at 45-50 degrees
Worms will become dormant and last for months
Tell customers to take the lid off and put in a small piece of carrot or potato; when worms are done feeding remove and place worms into the refrigerator
Keep your worms in the original closed container to preserve the correct moisture balance. Phoenix Worms will keep for weeks at room temperatures from 60-70 degrees. For even longer shelf life, keep cool (50-60 degrees) but do not refrigerate.
Large size Phoenix Worms are farther along in their life cycle and will darken in preparation for pupation more quickly than the smaller sizes. This is normal and the worms are not dead. Calcium levels are highest in the darker worms. We suggest feeding the darker worms first while they are still wiggly.
Packing media can be easily removed from your worms by pouring out the worms to be served and allowing them to dry for a few minutes. Media will fall away from the dry worms. Any clinging residue can be easily blown off before serving.
Serve dry Phoenix Worms in a shallow dry dish. Any moisture that is present will enable Phoenix Worms to climb out of the dish and hide in the substrate.
Silkworms will live longest in the pod when there is little to no temperature fluctuation and when the pod receives adequate ventilation
In most cases your worms will flourish when placed in a tub or box with no cover and added to a bedding of mulberry leaves. These can be found in most neighborhood parks and on some streets. If they can't be located, you can grate the food in the bottom of the cup for them to eat.
Maintain them between 75° and 85° for growing, you can keep them a little cooler and withhold food to prevent them from growing larger.
Worms will turn into beautiful moths who will lay eggs by the hundreds and the cycle will start all over again!
On arrival, shake worms out and put into a plastic container (kitty litter pan or dish pan).
Add a 1” layer of wheat bran or mealworm bedding
Moisture is provided by a small piece of raw potato, carrot, or celery (this is essential)
Do NOT Refrigerate Superworms!!! It will kill them. Keep them between 75° and 90°
They will not change to pupae or beetles, but their shelf life is roughly 4 months to 1 year when given food, water, and kept at room temperature.
Keep the habitat with either the lid up or if upside down on a screen or grate so the worms get fresh air.
If you'd like your worms to grow larger, keep them at 82°. Keep them at 55° to slow their metabolism when they're at the desired size (a wine cooler works great for this).
Shake out the yellow little 'kernels', these are the droppings and will build up quickly
It will take 7-10 days upon receiving your culture for the flies to begin producing babies.
Your culture should be kept between 65° and 90°. Always keep 5-10 flies minimum as a breeding culture to lay new eggs, on the other hand don't let too many flies breed as crowding will damage your culture.
Place your roaches in a container with smooth sides so they can't escape (plastic tubs, aquariums, etc) this will also keep other insects from entering!
Use a screen lid for an aquarium or cut a hole in a plastic tub, covering it with screen or plastic mesh.
Add vertical egg flats to give them hiding places, and to keep them up off of their droppings.
Keep your roaches warm (around 90°) and at least 60% humidity. Adult males will dehydrate rapidly through respiration from their wings.
A ceramic heat emitter or under tank heater can be used with a thermostat to maintain the temperature
Feed your roaches fruits and vegetables and grains. A commercial roach chow (e.g. Bug Burger) works well for providing thier protein needs. Remove old vegetables at once!
Roaches can be given water in the form of water crystals to prevent drowning.